California Deserts
As we arrived in Palm Springs at night, it wasn't possible to understand how it is organised as a city, so the next morning we were absolutely overwhelmed. As I believe I said before, I love the desert and arid places with hot weather. Coachella Valley is as dry as it comes and is embraced by beautiful and dramatic mountains.
Half of Palm Springs is made out of country clubs, as I expected. Whenever I thought of it before coming there I always imagined retired rich people with a dark tan and pastel coloured golf apparel either hanging out next to a swimming pool or driving golf carts around. Sorry if this sounds prejudiced, but I find it kind of funny, though.
One thing I loved was the Spanish architecture heritage and the super organised and lovely neighbourhoods. As we walked and drove around soaking in the vibe, we decided to go north, towards Joshua Tree National Park.
I have never seen Joshua Trees and now I want to have one but can't find it anywhere in Portugal! They're really cool and funky looking and there are thousands of them. On our way to Yucca Valley we had to stop a few times as the surrounding nature was taking our breath away. Yucca Valley is a little city with loads of hipster/alternative shops and coffee shops. We had lunch there and visited some vintage shops.
We heard somewhere that there was this place called Pioneertown, only a few minutes away from Yucca Valley, which was created in 1940's as a set for western movies. So, not as old as it seems, it's old and interesting enough to take a detour. Some of the buildings have real businesses inside.
This day we had to drive to Las Vegas but we had time. The drive is 3 hours and a half , so we had time to stop whenever we wanted.
One thing about driving from point A to point B that I've learned is to enjoy the ride. Because in between are all the things you didn't predict and you can be surprised if you take a minute to look around. You may find amazing things if you do decide to go check what's around you. This is how we found The Amboy Salt Flats and the Amboy Volcano Crater, this black beauty in the middle of the sandy Mojave Desert. I have to say that I've never seen a volcano before, and Luis was laughing at me because apparently this is a really small one. Nonetheless I was psyched to be there and to think how those black rocks laying still on the ground were once vivid lava (don't mind me, I have become an enthusiast of geology and mineralogy throughout the years but I'm still very naïve in the field).
Ok, so, after all, we were driving for a bit on Route 66 without knowing, I guess it could have happened before but we were too absorbed with everything to notice it! 😅
One thing I knew I wanted to see near Las Vegas was Ugo Rondinone's Seven Magic Mountains. They're beautiful and we got lucky to see them as this public art exhibition ended at the end of 2018!
All over the roads we drive by, there are peculiar things, some made by nature and some by men. I'm not sure if I felt this way because of the harsh contrast between it and the calmness of the deserts we were coming from, but Las Vegas did not win my heart. We were even thinking of getting married there before we arrived, but Vegas is not worthy of the celebration of such a pure thing as the love me and Luis have for each other. I guess it's just not for us, as I couldn't feel anything but the cheesiness and fakeness of everything around me. Therefore I will skip my Vegas experience and my next post will be about Grand Canyon!! <3
Salvation Mountain
I've always felt a certain allure for this kind of constructions, and always wondered why would somebody dedicate so much time and effort constructing with their own hands such eccentric places.
After changing a flat tire in Mexico and waiting for a while to cross the border to the United States again, we set our way towards Salvation Mountain, a huge folk art site in Imperial County, California. I've always felt a certain allure for this kind of constructions, and always wondered why would somebody dedicate so much time and effort constructing with their own hands such eccentric places. I guess that's what makes them so mystical and I always feel a swirl of bewilderment as I get closer.
This construction is the second one created by Leonard Knight, who, in the last half of the 60's, experienced a spiritual awakening that led him to worship and dedicate himself to God and Jesus up until his death (in 2014). He made his way from Vermont to California in the next two decades, doing this and that, and having in mind the creation of the biggest hot air balloon in the world which would have written the words "GOD IS LOVE". After many attempts the balloon did not thrive and so he decided to make one last effort to spread his faith.
For four years Knight started creating a mountain made out of sand, cement and junk he found in the dump. He then painted his artwork with his beloved sayings and prayers. This first mountain collapsed, creating a huge cloud of dust, due to the overloading of sand and its heaviness.
Having interpreted this setback as a positive message from God, he started reconstructing his mountain with proper and much lighter materials such as adobe clay and straw. This new construction started in 1989 and has evolved ever since. It is possible to walk under it, and there are some 'museum' rooms and nooks, which are all huge altars that praise God with messages of redemption.
Although I don't identify with any kind of religion, I can say I've felt really peaceful and happy and loved with all this naive beauty and all the blissful, endless desert that surrounds it. I guess Leonard Knight wanted to spread love, as he said 'love is the strongest force on earth and can combat the hate that is so prevalent in today’s world' - and I couldn't agree more.
As the sun set, we left and drove lazily in the direction of Palm Springs. We couldn't help stopping the car next to the road to watch the beautiful lake reflecting the sky and the mountains with the thinest moon crowning that eternal sky.
<3
Cosmic Texas
That is something that I guess I only felt in some parts of Spain. The awareness that you can walk endlessly in any direction, having the broadest sight range ever is absolutely overwhelming.
In south USA, right above the Mexican border, with only the infamous Rio Grande separating both countries, there's Del Rio. A sounding name for those fond of western movies. My reference was "No Country for Old Men" by Joel and Ethan Cohen. Del Rio has received us in a random motel at night time. As always we spotted countless deers and a badger crossing our path in the arid landscape, which will never get old for me, as I love animals. The first thing we spotted in the morning was the beautiful railroad bridge, surrounded by a desolate landscape, contrasting with Lake Amistad pale blue waters. We drove around the lake, finding lovely and quiet spots to just sit and breath in all the lovely nature that moved all around us.
We had to stop at the Marfa Lights Viewing Area. Though they have reportedly been seen mostly at dusk and when the sky gets darker, we just wanted to take a look. After being in the USA for several days at this point we can understand now how so many people report sightings of weird things in the sky and different other phenomenon. In Miami we were in a street where there was heavy rain in one side and the other was perfectly sunny. We saw weird little tornados, heavenly sunbeams and even a waterspout! So, it actually looks like the perfect place for something "otherworldly" to happen.
This part of the U.S. Route 90 is filled with adorable communities. One of them is Marathon, with its very peculiar houses, it is known for its super dark night skies, which make it possible to see clearly all the marvellous stars up above. The views in this area are amazing. You have huge open and endless fields. That is something that I guess I only felt in some parts of Spain. The awareness that you can walk endlessly in any direction, having the broadest sight range ever is absolutely overwhelming.
In Marfa, we visited the Chinati Foundation, a beautiful example of how a small city was put on the map by artists and art lovers. And we also went to El Cosmico, a cool shamanic trailer park hotel. Nearby there's a shop just by the main street where you can find bewitching minerals. Some of them coming from mines nearby.
As anyone who knows a bit of art and fashion, I've always been intrigued by "Prada Marfa" installation by artists Elmgreen and Dragset, it is actually located in Valentine. Built in 2005, this structure has been vandalised two times and it is a showstopper for anyone who's been driving around. While we were taking some photographs these three cowboys stopped their pickup on the shoulder and went to contemplate the windows of this fake shop. I wonder if they were trying to find the perfect handbag for their old lady!
Though this time we were more driven by nature and we went to visit smaller places, I hope next time we'll get to check out the big Texas cities. I can assure you that crossing Texas from East to West is absolutely worth it. The landscapes are endlessly amazing!Next Stop: New Mexico <3